Each season, designer John Varvatos issues a release to press and retailers that highlights the finer points of his collection.

Project Text

For Fall 2007, John Varvatos ventures deeper into his stomping grounds, mapping out new terrain but staying on his road well traveled. There is a return to elegance, not in an obvious suit-&-tie sense, but with a dignified composition of elements that is at once old world and undeniably modern. The new collection conveys a sort of dustbowl chic, a weathered yet meticulous style with distinctly American bones.

Proportions have shifted, with two primary silhouettes: slimmer, shorter jackets worn with full trousers and slouchier tops worn with lower-rise stovepipe trousers. The trousers have sleek fronts with dress extension tabs and are worn without belts. They can have big cuffs, sometimes as wide as 3 inches. Suit lapels are skinnier with new notch details, new peaks and contrast stitching. Working watch pockets are a charming vintage detail.

Layering is paramount. Soft jackets are mixed with plaid shirtings and sweaters, vests, skinny ties, bow ties. Thrown on top are greatcoats in fluid fabrics like washed gabardine, sometimes trimmed with leather and belted. Checks and all manner of plaids as well as finer, subtler prints abound in shirtings. Some have raw, frayed seams, giving a softer, worn-in appeal. These are mixed with chunky patterned sweaters in wool, alpaca and cashmere, and with dip-dyed cashmere sweaters with ghostly patterns printed on the reverse side.

Leathers are softer, too. They look and feel burnished by the hands of time. An antique motorcycle jacket in richly striated haircalf with antique metal buttons; a chocolate leather formal vest with lapels; a supple, two-tone leather car coat—all hand-dyed and -aged, they seem lovingly seasoned, worn for generations.

Employing sportswear details in tailored pieces is a recurrent Varvatos motif, and this season it shows up in interesting ways. A performance wool jacket with zip-out quilted lining is worn with pinstriped trousers. Other jackets have hoods zipped into the neckline. A coated cotton jacket does double duty thanks to an inner wool work jacket that buttons out. A double-faced peacoat in wool and cotton has a magnificent heft.

Although Fall 2007 with its rich palette of black, dark olive, loden, mauve and chocolate feels very pulled together, there is also an ease, a relaxed sensibility. Suspenders are worn dropped down, printed cashmere scarves are casually draped about the neck, wool felt hats with silk scarf bands add warmth and character rather than formality. The collection indicates the way to a new refinement that is subtle and very wearable.